Although I've built this model in the past, (http://geebeesmodels.webs.com/tamiyamorgan44.htm) I had a bit of luck of getting another one off eBay for a very good price, so I thought I would crack on and make a start on it, this time it will be built with the top down, and I decided that I wanted to do a Morgan in metallic blue, and found some old Chrysler U.K paint in the cupboard, and decided to use that, it's called Aquarius metallic Blue.
The body I'm using for this build is actually a second hand one I managed to get for parts for the last Morgan I built, the body had been painted, but that was stripped and had been sitting in my spares box for a while, my reasoning behind using a second hand body was that if anything went wrong with it, I still had a brand new on in reserve, luckily the primer went on without a hitch, and the top coat did the same, it now needs to gas out so the gloss clearcoat can be put on.
With the body and body parts painted, I now started work on the interior, this time I decided it would be done in a slightly darker tone than the previous Morgan, I went through my bags of flocking and found a very nice tan shade, and going through my tinlets of paint, found a Humbrol shade (# 62) that was a near perfect match.
Before the parts could be primed, the seat backs needed the gap filling, there not that bad of a fit, and mostly are not seen, but I like to know that the job has been right.
To fill in the seat backs I used a two part automotive filler commonly known as Bondo, it's easy to work with, sets pretty quickly and is easy to sand off, the advantage of using a two part filler over the one part hobby fillers is that the two part filler doesn't shrink like the one part fillers, so the job can usually be done in one application.
Once the parts had been sanded all parts were given a couple of coats of grey plastic primer, and then a couple of coats of Humbrol # 62 thinned out with lacquer thinners, this makes the paint cure in a much shorter time than using regular enamel thinners.
After leaving the interior tub to dry overnight, it was masked up so the underneath and the wheel wells could be painted satin black, once that was done, a start could be made on starting the flocking on the interior, this is best done in small sections, for this I use Solvite repair paste, which is a PVA based adhesive, it doesn't need watering down and can be used straight out of the tube, I always pour out a bit into a plastic tub and use a medium flat hobby brush to apply it to the plastic, then the flocking can be sprinkled onto the glue and left to dry for a few hours, I always go over the next day with a second coat.
As this model is being built as a 'Top down' model, the side screens which are part of the clear sprue needed masking off (Both sides) and airbrushing what in real life is the same material as the soft top, for this I used a satin black automotive lacquer, they were left overnight to dry off before the masking tape was removed, see photo on the top left for the painted window screen's, they still need the frames to be picked out in aluminium BMF.
Next part I tackled was the dashboard, like the last Morgan, I wanted this dash to replicate a wooden dash that some Morgan's came with, I wanted this to be a nice glossy walnut effect, so I masked off the top rail which I wanted to keep the same as the interior colour, so that was masked off using Tamiya masking tape, this is the bast tape I have found, it's easy to mask items that have a curve in them and for trickier masking jobs I can easily be cut into thinner strips, once masked the dash was airbrushed using Tamiya Desert sand, (XF-59), and then it was dry brushed using Tamiya bronze and then overcoated with Tamiya clear orange, (See photo on the left)
As the roof on this model will be down, the interior had to look it's best, so like a lot of my latest builds the interior was covered in flocking to replicate the carpet that the real thing has, flocking looks so much more realistic than just leaving in paint, there are plenty of articles on the internet on just how to apply the flocking, once the flocking has dried overnight, the two seats were fitted using 5 minute epoxy glue and clamped in place and left to dry for a few hours.
With the interior left to dry, I carried on by working on the bodyshell and body parts that had been left to dry for a few days, the metallic paint needed to be sealed with a clearcoat, for this I used automotive acrylic lacquer, I applied a couple of coats which when dry was wet sanded using some 3600 grade wet & dry paper, then polished out using some Poorboys SSR2 polishing compound on a cotton polishing wheel mounted in a Minicraft modelling drill, set to a medium speed and working slowly, once the shine was up to what I was aiming for, it was sealed using some Meguires Gold class liquid wax, the reflection in the photo is my circular modelling lamp.
With the body now cleared, the front needed to be masked up as the paint under the bonnet area and the firewall needed to be done in satin black, so the body was masked up using Tamiya masking tape, the rear of the body will be covered in paper, then the satin black acrylic lacquer can be airbrsuhed on,